LOC-TITE THREAD LOCKER

By Carl Thomason, from the Sparkplug, of the Beach Cities Inland Empire Chapter, So. Cal. 
  
Frequently, the product “ Loc–Tite “ is referred to as a way to keep bolts and nuts from loosening. However, many people do not know that 
there is more than one type of Loc–Tite and what each type is used for. Having worked in manufacturing for over 45 years, I am very familiar with these uses. These are the ones most commonly used:   

Permanent Type ( Red ) : Loc–Tite # 262, high strength, or #271, very high strength – these should be used where you never anticipate removing them. 
However, if you find that necessary, there is a way to cause this type of Loc–Tite to release. Use a propane or acetylene torch to warm the item. 
Don’t heat it too quickly, or it will “ cook “ the Loc–Tite into a hard glob. Then, while it is still warm, remove the nut or bolt. Of course, this procedure may create problems if done near paint or flammable materials, so use caution. 

Removable Type ( Blue ) : Loc–Tite # 242, .This is used if, in the future, 
you may need to remove the nut or bolt. It is not necessary to use any heat on this type to make it release, and is, therefore, usually the best choice. 

Cylindrical Type ( Green ) : Loc–Tite # 609, high viscosity / high temperature, and # 680, medium viscosity / high strength. This is used when you must fill and ‘ voids ‘ or wear on a shaft when mounting a gear or pulley. It is usually not necessary to use any heat on this type to make it release. Remember to clean the oil off the mating parts before using Loc–Tite. Acetone or plain alcohol usually works well.

Fix For Your Vacuum Wipers

       Are the wipers on your Studebaker getting real tired?    Don’t despair!  Here is a cheap, easy, and effective fix that takes only ten minutes.  No parts to buy, and you don’t even have to take the wiper motor off the car!  What you have to do is clean the air filter in the wiper motor.  Yes, Buckie, there IS a filter in there. If you study the motor housing, you will note there are three holes in the underside of the housing.  They are the air inlet ports for the motor, and the filter behind them probably has not been touched since the car was built a half century ago. 

The little cover plate is held on by two screws that have odd shaped heads.  They can be removed with locking pliers.  Remove the cover plate and its gasket.  Use a sharp-pointed tool to pry the felt filter out of the housing.  You may have to scrape the mud off of it.  Then wash it in soap suds and water and squeeze it dry.  Don’t oil the wiper valve parts as oil gets sticky when it ages.  Either squirt the valve with silicone spray, or just leave it clean and dry.  Put a little very light grease on the cover gasket before you reinstall the cover -–it must be air tight. 

If all this doesn’t make your wiper run faster and steadier, maybe you should check the vacuum side.  Make sure the hose is not leaking air, that the engine is properly tuned, and the orifice fitting in the manifold is not clogged.  You might even oil the arm pivots.  But I’ll bet you won’t have to do more than just clean the filter! 

This tip by Earl Haley originally appeared in the Turning Wheels, September 1984 and was brought to our attention by the Heart of Dixie Chapter newsletter The Headliner, Brian Larson, Editor. 
 

 

 

Front Fender Apron Rubber

Many Studebakers have a rubber piece attached to the lower part of the front fender apron.  (Some may also have a piece located at the top rear of the fender apron near the firewall).  The purpose of this piece is to prevent dirt and water from being thrown up into the engine compartment by the front tire. 

Replacements can be made butyl rubber underlayment, the type normally used for flat roof applications.  Contact a local roofing company and see if you can talk them out of a square yard or so.  Use your old pieces to develop a pattern and scissors to cut the new pieces.  Attach your new pieces with ˝ “ Arrow T-50 model staples available at any hardware store. 

These are the exact same width as the originals and will easily fit through the holes in the metal apron.  Use needle nose pliers bend over the staple tabs to approximate the appearance of the original staples. 

>Reprinted from the N. Puget Sound Chapter newsletter - Stude Road Dust, Pat Knappert, Editor.

 

 

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